Fabrics in Fashion: i. Cotton

• What is in this article?

  
  

  i. How and where is cotton made?

  ii. Cotton, recycled cotton and organic cotton

  iii. Why wear cotton?

  iv. Types of cotton fabrics in fashion

  
  
  
  

  i. How and where is cotton made?

  
  

• For thousands of years across the globe, cotton has been produced as a textile by hand-spinning and is still practiced today, in some parts of the world, as a traditional craft. Simple tools, such as a spindle and distaff, are used to help the spinner draw out and twist the raw cotton fibres into a continuous yarn.

• From around 3000 BC, there is evidence of skilled and quality cotton production in several ancient civilisations, such as the Indus Valley (present day Pakistan and India), ancient Peru and ancient Egypt, where intricate and elaborately designed cotton garments were considered luxurious and made for the wealthy.

  
  

• For centuries, India was a major exporter of cotton to Europe. By the seventeenth Century, the British East India Company increased the volume of cotton imports significantly, with over a million pieces traded annually.

  
  

• Although, the Industrial Revolution in eighteenth Century Britain brought about cotton manufacture in the newly built factories, with machines such as Spinning Jennies and power looms increasing efficiency and production, it was heavily reliant on imported cotton from India, leading to protectionist policies to restrict the supply chain and keep the British Empire's monopoly over cotton production. As a result, cotton clothing came to dominate the fashions and styles of the Victorian era.

  
  

• Today, the largest producer, importer and consumer of cotton is China, particularly the Xinjiang region, with nearly 300 million people involved in its production. Advancements in technology, such as mechanised tractors and pickers; plant protection drones; self-propelled harvesters; smart irrigation methods and AI management of systems of production, have led to higher yields and improved quality.

  
  

ii. Cotton, recycled cotton and organic cotton

• Cotton is a renewable source and biodegradable, making it a more environmentally friendly, compared to some synthetic fabrics. Both recycled and organic cotton are more sustainable alternatives to regular cotton.

  
  

• Recycled cotton is made from both pre-consumer waste (off-cuts) and post-consumer waste (discarded clothing), minimising landfill waste. Recycling also conserves more of the water and energy used in cotton cultivation, reducing the carbon footprint of production, compared to regular and organic cotton. However, the recycled fibres can be shorter and weaker than the virgin fibres of freshly picked cotton, potentially impacting the fabric's durability.

  
  

• Alternatively, organic cotton is virgin cotton grown without synthetic pesticides, herbicides or GMOs and using specific sustainable farming methods such as crop rotation, composting and biological pest control. Although it prioritises soil health, biodiversity and reduced chemical exposure for farmers and consumers, organic cotton is more expensive to produce due to lower yields and higher labour costs.

• For more information about the environmental cost of cotton production, please read:

  https://www.stylemap.com/article/sustainable-fashion-the-environmental-cost-of-clothes-production

  and

  https://www.stylemap.com/article/sustainable-fashion-the-changing-supply-chain

iii. Why wear cotton?

• Cotton clothing allows air to permeate the fabric and absorbs sweat, allowing the wearer to regulate body temperature in warm weather and stay dry and comfortable.

  
  

• Cotton can also feel soft and gentle on skin and hypoallergenic on sensitive skin, compared to many synthetic fibres.

  
  

• Cotton's strength and durability, as well as it's ease of care, versatility and affordability make it a practical fabric choice for clothing.

iv. Types of cotton fabrics in fashion

• Broadcloth is a tightly woven and plain weave fabric - a more dense and heavyweight version of cotton poplin, known for its smooth, fine texture and soft finish. It is used for dress shirts, skirts, shirts, tuxedos, lightweight suits and ties, as well as for lining clothes.

  
  

• Canvas is a heavy-weight and plain woven cotton with a robust weave structure; highly durable, water and abrasion resistant. Canvas stands up to heavy washing and wear and can be used to make outdoor clothing such as backpacks, bags, plimsolls and jackets.

  
  

• Chambray is a plain-weave cotton fabric made with a dyed warp yarn and a white filling yarn. It has a similar weave to denim, but is lighter, more airy and softer. Chambray can wrinkle , but does soften with wear, making it a durable and comfortable choice for Summer clothing.

  
  

• Cheesecloth is a breathable, soft, textured fabric. It's soft, draped and semi- opaque texture creates a relaxed, yet refined look and is often used in breezy beach and Summer wear designs.

  
  

• Corduroy is a cotton twill weave fabric with thickened vertical stripes, making it thick, durable and cozy. It was originally used to make workwear items and later adopted by the aristocracy in the eighteenth Century for country wear. It is still popular for trousers, jackets, coats and hats, especially worn outdoors in Autumn weather.

  
  

• Cotton Batiste is a semi-sheer plain weave fabric, with a high tensile strength and durability. It can also be produced with a satin weave to create a shinier version. Variations of cotton batiste:

  
  

  Lawn cotton: a thicker batiste often dyed and printed eg. Summer dress

  Organza: a more sheer batiste eg. sheer, floaty Summer blouses and dresses

  Organdy: a crisp and sheer batiste eg. wedding, First Communion dresses

  Voile: soft, light and sheer eg. flowy Summer dresses, jumpsuits, nightwear

• Cotton Chenille is a soft, fuzzy texture with a unique yarn construction, achieved by wrapping short lengths of yarn (pile) around two core yarns, creating a fuzzy, caterpillar-like appearance. This gives chenille a soft, plush appearance that gives dimension and a shiny or iridescent appearance. It is often used to make jumpers, scarves, gloves and bath robes.

• Cotton Jersey fabric is a knitted material, predominantly cotton with elastane added for stretch. It is naturally absorbent and breathable; wrinkle-resistant and requires minimal care. Soft and drapeable, cotton jersey is used to make draped or wrapped dresses, leggings, activewear, loungewear and sleepwear.

  
  

• Cotton Poplin is a tightly woven weave and can be blended with synthetic fibres. It's finish is smooth, crisp and lightweight, giving a formal and polished look. Poplin is commonly used in shirt-making, shirt-dresses and crisper skirts.

  
  

• Cotton Twill has a tightly-packed plain weave structure, characterised by diagonal lines on the face of the fabric. Chino, denim, garbadine and drill are all variations of cotton twill, that are durable and often used to make trousers, jeans and jackets.

  
  

• Crepe is a cotton fabric with a distinct crinkled or uneven surface texture, caused by tightly twisting the yarns during weaving, giving it a unique and tactile appearance. It is often used to make casual Summer clothing. After washing, crepe may need to be twisted before drying, to keep its structure and appearance.

  
  

• Damask (named after the city of Damascus, where it was first produced) is woven with a reversible pattern, created by contrasting satin with plain or twill weaves. The damask pattern is created by the intricate interlacing of warp and weft yarns. It can be used to make evening gowns, evening jackets, blouses and scarves.

  
  

• Denim is a sturdy cotton twill that lies in a diagonal ribbing structure. Cotton denim was first produced in England and then perfected in the American cotton mills. Denim is often pre-washed or shrunk before the point of sale, but can also be bought as a shrink-to-fit item. Usually worn as jeans and jackets.

• Flannel is a soft, medium-weight cotton fabric that has a fuzzy finish on one or both sides (double-brushed) that can become softer with age. Flannel feels cozy and warm against skin and is perfect for pyjamas, dressing gowns, slippers, warm shirts and jackets.

  
  

• Fleece can be made of cotton, as well as synthetics and wool. It has a dense fabric construction and is soft and fuzzy to touch, making it perfect for staying warm in the Winter months as jackets, scarves, hats and gloves.

  
  

• Gauze is a soft, textured and lightweight open-weave cotton fabric. Double gauze is two layers of very thin gauze fabrics that have been basted together and form a subtle grid over the entire fabric, giving it a spongy texture and billowy drape. It is suitable for lightweight Summer clothing, such as relaxed blouses, trousers, dresses and scarves.

  
  

• Mesh is characterised by holes between the yarns, constructed into a weave, knit, crochet, lace or net. It can be used to create garments that are either delicate in look and feel or need to be aerated, such as grocery bags, beach cover-ups or sportswear.

  
  

• Moleskin (named after mole hair) is a heavy cotton fabric, woven, then shorn to create a short, soft pile on one side, resulting in a similar texture to suede. Insulating and windproof, it is often used to make outdoor trousers and jackets.

  
  

• Oxford cloth is a woven cotton fabric with a basket-weave structure and a lustrous feel, making it a popular fabric for dress shirts (Royal Oxford), as well as casual button-down shirts (Plain Oxford).

  
  

• Pique is a weaving style normally used with cotton yarn with raised parallel cords or geometric designs in the fabric. Pique fabrics can range from semi-sheer to heavy weight in construction. Pique weave is associated with ornate and formal 'white tie' clothing. Pique knit can be a single or double knit structure, used in making polo shirts.

  
  

  

  
  

• Plisse is a cotton fabric with a crinkled or pleated striped texture, created by applying a solution (sodium hydroxide) that shrinks part of the fabric, leaving it puckered. It is often used in Summer weight trousers and dresses.

  
  

• Pima cotton is know for its high quality, strength, unusual softness, silky fibres and is smooth to touch, compared to regular cotton. Although it is long-lasting and holds its colour well, it is a more expensive choice at the point of sale. In fact, some companies choose not to produce it, because the clothing lasts so well. A great choice for timeless essentials. Variations of Pima cotton:

  
  

  Egyptian cotton: hand-picked, strong with a high thread count eg. underwear

  Sea Island cotton: hand-picked, luxurious, soft and smooth eg. t-shirts

  Supima cotton: long fibres, strong, retains colour eg. t-shirts, jackets

  
  

• Sateen cotton is soft, lustrous and smooth, with a satin weave structure, floating the weft (horizontal) threads over the warp (vertical). It is durable and wrinkle-resistant, commonly used to make blouses and skirts.

  
  

• Seersucker (from the Persian 'Shir-o-Shakhar' meaning milk and sugar, to describe its alternating textures) is a woven cotton fabric with a thin, puckered railroad stripe. It is most commonly created with a plain, striped, gingham or chequered pattern and used for lightweight, casual Summer clothing.