Fabrics in Fashion: iii. Denim
- Joanna
- Jul 19
- 4 min read
Updated: Jul 20
What is in this article?
i. Early origins and manufacture of denim
ii. Denim in fashion
iii. Variations of denim
i. Early origins and manufacture of denim
In the early sixteenth Century, the Italian port city of Genoa was known for producing a sturdy cotton and twill fabric called 'Jean.' It was initially undyed or dyed brown, then later with indigo - 'Bleu de Genes' and worn by sailors and workers.
By the late seventeenth Century, a sturdy fabric called 'Serge de Nimes' (twill from Nimes) was created by the weavers of Nimes, attempting to replicate the original Genoese fabric. 'De Nimes' became the shortened descriptor for what we now call denim.
During the religious conflicts of the sixteenth and seventeenth Century and the rise of French Protestantism, numbers of weavers who were Protestants were forced to flee France. Many settled in foreign countries, including America and eventually resumed their trade.
Later, in the nineteenth Century, a Latvian tailor named Jacob Youphes, (name change: Jacob Davis) opened a shop in Nevada, where he produced and sold hard-wearing outdoor goods, such as horse blankets, wagon covers and tents.
Like many, a German from Buttenheim called Levi Strauss came to settle in San Francisco in the 1853 Gold Rush. There, the family established their business, which included importing textiles from France. One day, Jacob Davis visited his Sacramento Street shop and chose to purchase the French woven cloth, as it was sturdy enough to create hard-wearing trousers for the workers of the local mining companies he supplied.
In 1872, Davis and Strauss founded a partnership and in 1873 patented 'blue jeans,' - the design reinforced with copper rivets for durability. They were worn by factory workers, miners, farmers and cattlemen throughout the North American West.
ii. Denim in fashion
Jeans became a symbol of the American West and a staple in wardrobes of railroad workers, lumberjacks, ranchmen and later, those who wanted to participate in the romanticisation of the mid-West values of freedom and authenticity.
World War Two led to shortages in denim manufacture for workwear and jeans started to become synonymous with leisure wear, even worn by GIs in their downtime overseas.
By the 1950s, jeans exploded in popularity, worn by the youth of both sexes as a symbol of rebellion and empowerment, as signified by Marlon Brando in 'The Wild One' (1953) and James Dean in 'Rebel without a Cause' (1955).
By the 1960s, jeans were worn with slimmer waists and 'bell bottom' style trousers by most younger people, as an unofficial uniform, to their social activities.
In the 1980s, new finishes such as acid washing and ripping, became popular, based on the bleached by salt water look of 1960s surfers' jeans. Punk, rock and grunge fashions all had a version of acid wash or stone washed jeans.
Around the same time, premium fashion brands such as Calvin Klein, Versace and Armani began to incorporate denim jeans into their collections, often in a slim-fit dark wash or brightly coloured.
By the 1990s, baggy and customised denim jeans, jackets and dungarees, with pocket and seam detailing, became popular as part of the hip-hop aesthetic. Later in the decade, a more sober boot cut style came into fashion, as part of a more minimalist style.
By the 2000s, denim jeans became very low-rise and popular looks were embellished with stones, jewels, embroidery, lacing, lacework and patchwork, still with a boot cut or slightly flared shape.
In the 2010s, skinny jeans, made with a high percentage of elastic fibres, came into fashion. Also, raw selvedge denim, which requires wearing in, became popular in hipster fashion, with sought out brands from Tokyo and Los Angeles leading the way in creating a raw, authentic finish.
Currently, over 70 million pairs of jeans are sold each year in the UK.
As consumers grow more aware of the environmental impact of the cotton and indigo industries; recycled denim, low-impact denim and sustainable cotton, for example, have become more desirable, with both niche and some high street brands prioritising eco-friendly manufacturing methods.
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iii. Variations of denim:
Acid Wash or Stone Wash denim undergoes a special washing process using pumice stones soaked in a bleaching agent, resulting in a faded, distressed appearance. The process can soften denim and make it more flexible, but reduces its lifespan.
Bull denim is a heavyweight, but not stiff, cotton denim, known for its 3x1 twill construction, known for its strength and durability.
Crushed denim has been treated to give a wrinkled or crinkled appearance, creating a rugged, unique look.
Ecru denim is an undyed, natural-coloured denim with a light brown tint.
Poly denim is a fabric blend of cotton and polyester fibres, which can give the comfort of cotton with the strength, wrinkle resistance and quick drying properties of polyester. It is less prone to losing colour and shape and is smoother than denim. It can also contain elastane for added stretch.
Raw/dry denim has not been washed or treated, resulting in a stiff, rigid feel. Raw denim can produce a weathered, unique pattern over time and and can soften with use, giving a personalised look, that reflects the wearer's movements and how they wear their jeans.
Sanforized denim has been pre-shrunk during manufacturing, to minimise any further shrinkage after washing. Most commercially produced denim is sanforized to ensure a consistent sizing and fit, over time.
Selvedge denim is woven on slower-moving traditional shuttle looms, resulting in a clean, finished edge (selvedge) on both sides of the fabric. Often sold raw, selvedge is a high quality, durable denim with textural irregularities and a unique fade, often with a coloured edge of yarn (red) running down the outer seam.
Stretch denim is a blend of denim with elastic fibres, such as elastane, Spandex or Lycra, to provide a comfortable, flexible fit. Form-fitting, it tends to keep its shape over time.
