Fabrics in Fashion: vi. Linen

Updated: 5 days ago

What is in this article?

i. Origins of linen production

Linen production is one of the oldest forms of textile production, with evidence of its use dating back as far as 36 000 BC - the oldest fragments found in Georgia, West Asia. Linen, used for clothing, was a significant part of ancient Egyptian culture and its use spread to Mesopotamia. The ancient Phoenicians, through trade with Egypt, brought linen to Europe.

In the European Middle Ages, households cultivated flax and produced linen for clothing and household goods. As the fabric was absorbent and durable, it was used for undergarments, such as shifts and shirts, as well as coarser linen for outerwear, such as head coverings and aprons.

By the seventeenth Century, the Netherlands, France and Belgium, particularly Haarlem in the Netherlands and Belgian Flanders, became centres of linen production. During the Industrial Revolution, textile production shifted towards cotton, which was more economical to produce. Linen continued to be produced, however, in Summer and in hot climates and enjoyed a resurgence in the twentieth Century.

Linen is made from the flowering flax seed or linseed plant. Flax is now grown predominantly in Eastern and Western Europe, where the temperate climate and loamy soil produces high quality plants. Currently, France produces 75% of the world's total yield.

Praised since ancient times for its purity, linen is now gaining popularity once again for its low carbon footprint; its production needing less water and fewer pesticides than cotton and creating a by-product of linseed oil. However, both nitrates and oxalic acid are used in non-organic linen production, which can be toxic for the surrounding environment; as well as a heavy use of bleach, to produce a pure, white linen.

ii. Linen in fashion

With a natural, soft and breathable feel, hypoallergenic, moisture-wicking and thermoregulating, linen gives a loosely fitted, breezy silhouette and a casual elegance to the wearer. However, as it is low in elasticity compared to other fabrics, it is prone to wrinkling.

In the 1970s, growing concern for the environment and a renewed interest in natural fibres, led to linen being used by Japanese designers at Kenzo and Italian designers at Gianfranco Ferre and Giorgio Armani, to create natural, yet elegant styles.

By the 1980s, technical innovations made it possible to create increasingly fine, soft and wrinkle resistant linen. It was used by designers such as Jean-Charles de Castelbajac and popularised by the character, James 'Sonny' Crockett on the US television series 'Miami Vice,' who wore tailored linen suits with pastel shirts.

In the 1990s, minimalist and deconstructivist designers were inspired by linen's naturalness and simplicity, with avant-garde European designers such as Anne Demeulemeester and Dries Van Noten, as well as Japanese designers, such as Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto experimenting with the fabric in their designs.

Predicted linen trends emphasise the use of minimalistic designs, earthy tones, organic and sustainable options; as well as wedding linen, 3D textures such as pleats and smocking, stylised finishes such as pearlescent, iridescent or satin and using linen blends for a more fluid look.

iii. Varieties of linen

Cambric linen, from Cambrai, France, has a fine weave and a smooth, comfortable finish, perfect for delicate items such as lingerie and handkerchiefs. It is also moisture wicking and resistant to wear and tear.
Handkerchief linen has a high thread count, a finely woven texture, a soft drape and is used for delicate items such as handkerchiefs and lightweight blouses. It has a smooth texture and luxurious feel.
Linen canvas has a plain weave structure and is resistant to tearing and fraying, making it a good choice for outdoor bags. It is often treated to make it more water resistant and extend its lifespan.

Linen gauze has an open weave and a lightweight drape, making it a good choice for lightweight Summer scarves and breezy tops.
Linen jersey is lightweight, breathable, easy to care for and somewhat wrinkle resistant, perfect for casual wear.
Loose weave linen is known for its open structure, breathability and high absorbency. It has a lightweight feel and soft drape, making it a good choice for lighter garments and casual wear.
Suiting linen has a tightly woven structure, a medium to heavyweight feel. It is strong, drapes well and retains its shape, compared to other linens.
Twill weave linen features a distinctive diagonal ribbing pattern. It offers durability, strength, drape, a soft feel and is less prone to wrinkling than other linens.