Fabrics in Fashion: ii. Wool

• What is in this article?

i. Origins of wool manufacture and trade

ii. Why wear wool?

iii. Woollen fabrics in fashion

i. Origins of wool manufacture and trade

• Wool's use can be traced back to around 10 000 BC in the near East and by the tribes of Northern Europe, as sheep began to be kept domestically. It was roughly spun and woven into a thick, uneven yarn.

  
  

• The ancient Sumerians and Egyptians also used wool to make clothing, a key part of their economy and trade.

  
  

• The ancient Romans reared sheep extensively, with Roman women often involved in the spinning and weaving wool into cloaks, tunics and socks.

  
  

• In Medieval England, the wool trade formed the backbone of the economy, centred in the market towns of the Cotswolds, leading to the rise of the wealthy merchant classes and exports to the Low Countries, France and Italy.

  
  

• Initially, simple hand techniques were used (twisting fibres with fingers), but over time drop spindles (weighted sticks) and spinning wheels (driven by a treadle) were used to improve efficiency and eventually evolved into more controlled and complex loom-based systems.

  
  

• In the eighteenth Century, power looms, such as the Spinning Jenny, played a pivotal part in the mechanised spinning techniques of the Industrial Revolution. English woollen mills, particularly in Yorkshire and Lancashire, generated wealth, as their wool production was exported to Europe and the Americas.

  
  

• Today, sheep are usually sheared in the Spring, to remove their fleece, using electric clippers. The fleece is cleaned and scoured, graded and sorted, based on quality. The wool is then carded (using a metal toothed comb), spun, then woven or knitted into various woollen fabrics. These fabrics can be finished, dyed and sometimes blended with other wools or synthetics.

  
  

• The future of wool production is evolving towards sustainability (eg. regenerative agriculture), higher quality (eg. finer, softer wools) and greater integration with technology (eg. digital printing and seamless knitting).

  
  

ii. Why wear wool?

• Compared to synthetic fabrics, wool is a natural fibre, known for its insulation in cool weather, breathability and moisture-wicking properties, as well as being hypo-allergenic and odour resistant to the wearer.

  
  

• Wool is also biodegradable (decomposes naturally) compared to synthetics (derived from petroleum), making it a more eco-friendly option.

  
  

• However, compared to a synthetic such as polyester, wool garments tend to be more expensive, can feel more scratchy against skin, be more delicate to wash and take longer to dry.

  
  

iii. Woollen fabrics in fashion

• Alpaca Wool Alpacas have been bred in South America for over 5000 years. There are two types of Alpaca wool- Huacaya (a dense, soft, crimp-y, sheep-like fibres) and Suri (longer and silkier fibres). It has almost no wool grease (lanolin) making it easy to clean. High quality and expensive, alpaca wool is soft, lightweight and very insulating.

  
  

• Angora Wool comes from the angora rabbit and is known for its softness, silky texture, light fluffiness and thin fibres. Although the angora rabbits moult their fur up to three times a year (when they are plucked or sheared) PETA investigations found abuse of the rabbits, especially on farms in China, which supplies 90% of the world's angora.

  
  

• Boiled Wool Wool yarn is first knitted and then boiled in a machine, producing small air chambers in the fabric, making it softer and more durable.

  
  

• Camel Wool The highest quality camel wool comes from the soft undercoat of the longer haired Bactrian camels of Asia, predominantly Mongolia. They naturally shed their hair in the Springtime, so the animals are not at risk of being mistreated and shearing is minimal. It is an excellent insulator: thick, soft and plush.

  
  

• Cashmere is a fibre obtained from a few select breeds of goats, predominantly Kashmir and Pashmina, with the goat's soft undercoat being reserved for textiles. It has been manufactured in Mongolia, Nepal and Kashmir for thousands of years. Cashmere is hygroscopic - it can both release and absorb water from the surrounding air, regulating both warm and cool temperatures for the wearer.

  
  

• Felt is made from raw wool, which is combed and boiled in water. It is robust, insulating and lightweight, but does not stretch well, giving a stiff, raw feel.

  
  

• Lambswool is wool that is 5 cm/2 inches or shorter from the first shearing of the sheep, at around the age of 7 months. It is silky smooth and elastic in texture and used to make lightweight knits, that are more delicate and resistant to stretching.

  
  

• Loden originates from the Tyrolian region of Austria. Unlike boiled wool, the yarn is woven, rather than knitted, then boiled. It can hold a specific shape, but does not stretch well.

  
  

• Merino is a breed or breeds of sheep, known for their fine, soft wool. Historically, bred domestically in the Iberian Peninsula (modern day Spain and Portugal), there was a strict monopoly and ban on exports, until flocks were sent to some of the European Royal courts. Now there are numerous recognised breeds over the world, including Australia and the Americas.

  
  

• Mohair yarn is derived from Angora goats, typically sheared twice a year for their wool. The wool is durable, resilient, can hold dye well and known for its thin, soft, light, fluffy texture, lustre and sheen.

  
  

• Quiviut is the inner wool of the muskox - the soft under wool beneath the longer outer wool. Found in Canada and Alaska, the wool is gathered when the animal moults. Expensive to buy, quiviut is exceptionally soft and warm and does not shrink in water.

  
  

• Shetland Wool is a fibre taken from sheep from the Shetland Islands of Scotland. Shetland yarns are graded from fine to medium and make a soft and durable wool. Traditionally, Shetland wool is used in traditional Fair Isle knitting and lace designs.

  
  

• Vicuna Wool is the hair of the South American vicuna - a camelid related to llamas and alpacas. The most expensive legal wool, the small hair diameter makes it one of the finest animal hairs. Vicunas are now are protected species and roam national parks in Peru, Bolivia, Argentina and Chile, where their wool is sheared for commerce every other year.

  
  

• Virgin Wool is wool that has never been processed, re-cycled or previously used in any other way. It comes from the first shearing of a lamb or from a sheep that have not had their wool used before. High quality and pure, it is known for its durability, softness and warmth.

• Worsted Wool is a type of wool yarn or fabric made from long, combed wool fibres that are aligned or parallel to each other. This process creates a strong, smooth and durable yarn with good stitch definition, often used for fine fabrics, such as suits.