The body shape considered ideal at different points in history reflects the prevailing culture and aspirations of the time and can be closely linked to various forms of artistic expression such as art, culture, architecture, film, photography, dance, interiors and clothing.
For instance, in ancient Egypt (1292-1069 BC), tall, slim women with angular, symmetrical faces were idealised, mirroring the angular shapes seen in pyramids and royal palaces. The ideal adornments included simple sheath dresses, heavy headpieces and graphic makeup, reflecting a culture where women had relative independence, compared to other cultures and eras. Queen Cleopatra, worshipped for her style and beauty, was emblematic of this look.
During the ancient Greek era (500-300 BC), ordinary people worshipped the gods and goddesses of Mount Olympus, with an emphasis on masculine beauty and the ideal of a muscular, yet lithe, Greek god. The ideal female body was described as rounded, soft and muscular, with both men and women wearing draped garments like the 'chiton' or 'peplos, harmonious with their ideal body type. This aesthetic of strength and beauty can be seen in the sculpture of the surviving Greek statues.
Moving on to the Han Dynasty (206 BC-220 AD), situated in present-day China, the preferred female body type was small and slim, often with ultra-small feet due to the practice of foot binding. The emphasis was on doll-like facial features, light skin and bright makeup, with brightly coloured dresses showcasing a slim waist. Clothing colours denoted social rank in the strictly hierarchical society of the Dynasty.
In the Italian Renaissance (1400-1700), the ideal body shape was rounded and full, with specific features like light skin, dark brown eyes, a high forehead, and golden wavy hair. The fashion of flowing dresses and voluminous sleeves allowed space for a larger body, while tightly bound corsets accentuated the waist and helped create the rich yet angelic aesthetic, as seen in Renaissance art.
During the Victorian era (1837-1901), an even smaller waist and a sloped shoulder line were idealised, with tight corsets and cage crinolines used to achieve this exaggerated look. Modesty was valued; makeup was forbidden and largely, only worn by prostitutes. Middle class women were idealised as the 'Angel of the House' and correspondingly, the era's fashions reflected a desire for a submissive appearance.
In the 1920s, the ideal body shape dramatically shifted to a boyish figure, with slim and narrow proportions and a flat chest. This look, influenced by Art Deco and Modernism, featured short hair, straight and narrow clothing styles, bust-flattening brassieres and hemlines rising to reveal more leg. Women, who had gained independence through work during World War I, expressed their newfound freedom through their fashion choices.
In direct contrast, the Golden Age of Hollywood (1930s-1950s) celebrated the hourglass shape, achieved through tight corsetry, bullet-shaped bras and more cinched clothing. This return to exaggerated femininity became more popular after the upheaval of World War II, as young women returned from working in the factories, farms and offices and young men returned from war, to create families and homes.
In contrast, the 1960s saw a shift towards fashion idealising a straight, adolescent shape with slim, long legs, reflecting the increased spending power of teenagers and their interest in affordable fashion. The 'Youth Quake' featured bright, geometric and slim-fitting clothing, including the popular mini-skirt, epitomising an optimistic, fun and youthful look.
By the 1980s, a tall, toned and athletic figure, which was both slim and curvy, became the ideal of beauty; worshipped on the runways of high fashion houses and epitomised by the supermodel era. This was also reflected in the rise of aerobics, fitness culture and related to the growing independence of the 1980s 'Career Woman.'
Conversely, the 1990s introduced the concept in fashion of 'heroin chic,' idealising a waif-like, androgynous body type, with models in magazines and runways appearing very thin and sometimes skeletal. Loose and disheveled-looking clothing styles reflected the music culture of Grunge and the depressed economic climate of the time.
Today, body standards continue to evolve, influenced by contemporary factors such as the internet; social media; technological advancements like AI; as well as surgical advancements. The prevalence of curated and altered body images, AI images, along with the popularisation of plastic surgery and more extreme diet and exercise regimes, has led to more exaggerated silhouettes in fashion that blends nature, fantasy and science. Increased globalisation, the internet and social media has led to more universal fashion trends. In addition, increased city and suburban populations have likely led to the democratisation of fashion, as well as increased conformity in style.