The term 'check' is derived from 'checkmate,' the decisive move made in chess, to capture the king! Nevertheless, the checkerboard design has been utilised in human-made items since ancient times, dating back to at least the Bronze Ages.
ARGYLE:
Adding a repeated diamond motif or a single diamond design with intersecting gridlines, knitted directly into the fabric, creates a sense of geometry and dimension in woollen clothing.
Originally, this pattern was the tartan chosen by and associated with Clan Campbell of Argyll in Western Scotland and was traditionally used for kilts and patterned socks, known as 'Tartan Hose.'
Following World War I, Argyle knitwear gained popularity in the United Kingdom. It was introduced by fashion houses like Pringle in the 1920s as golf attire and was embraced by the aristocracy, most notably the Duke of Windsor, especially in the form of jerseys, plus-fours and knee-length socks.
CHECKERBOARD:
Buffalo check, originally featuring black squares on a red background, was inspired by a design known as Rob Roy, named after a Scottish folk hero who sported woollen shirts in the forests of Pennsylvania. These patterned shirts later transitioned into mainstream American fashion in the twentieth Century as lumberjack shirts. The flannel plaid shirt later became revived as part of an iconic 1990s Grunge fashion look, famously worn by Seattle bands, such as Nirvana.
Black and white checkerboard, commonly associated with motor racing, gained popularity as part of the bold, geometric and playful car designs and Mod fashion of the 1960s. Subsequently, this pattern was embraced by American skateboarders in the 1970s and further popularised in streetwear by brands such as Vans and linked to the Ska skateboarding, music and alternative culture of the 1990s.
GINGHAM:
Gingham - a fabric with white and brightly coloured dyed checks, of medium weight and balance, have been produced by the cotton mills of Manchester since the mid-eighteenth Century.
Dorothy's famous blue and white gingham pinafore dress from 'The Wizard of Oz' (1939) captured the essence of a Great Depression-era farm girl from rural Kansas.
Later, gingham gained popularity in the 1950s as part of the French 'Nouvelle Vague' gamine look, appearing in cotton blouses, skirts and dresses, famously worn by Brigitte Bardot as a pink gingham dress for her wedding to Jaques Charrier in 1959.
Gingham was also prevalent in men's Mod clothing of the early 1960s, especially made into shirts and remains associated with the look of mod and indie music as well as brands such as Ben Sherman, Fred Perry, Merc and Lambretta Clothing, continuing into the 1980s and 1990s.
HOUNDSTOOTH:
The houndstooth or 'Dog's Tooth' check is a tessellated pattern with two tones and repeating four-pointed shapes.
Initially crafted in the Scottish Lowlands, this design is now used in various fabrics.
Christian Dior's 'New Look' from 1947 incorporated the houndstooth check, a pattern often found in its iconic tweed suits. The motif became closely associated with the brand, with early 'Miss Dior' (1947) perfume bottles even shaped in a houndstooth design. The pattern was famously sported by Lauren Bacall in 'The Big Sleep' (1946).
Similar to gingham, houndstooth was adopted by 'Nouvelle Vague' European fashion and the Mod style of the early 1960s in bolder, larger designs.
Houndstooth experienced a resurgence in the 1980s as part of 'power dressing', the formal attire of the chic professional woman.
Later, it was prominently featured in Alexander McQueen's 2009 Autumn/Winter collection, where it underwent a dramatic and theatrical reinterpretation.
MADRAS:
Madras Fabric is a lightweight cotton fabric that is handwoven and characterised by checks, stripes or plaids made with vegetable dyes, resulting in a slightly bleeding colour, that gives a softer look to the pattern.
Originating from the Madras region of India, this fabric is commonly used for summer-weight shirts, trousers, jackets and dresses, often crafted into patchwork designs for a more textured appearance.
In the 1950s and 1960s, the 'Preppy' madras print, synonymous with North-East American collegiate fashion, emerged as a symbol of authenticity and quality in clothing, contrasting with the mass-produced American cotton of lower quality.
TARTAN:
Originating in Scotland, tartan fabric is a patterned woven wool featuring criss-crossing bands of multiple colours.
The Highland tartans were traditionally worn by the clans people of Scotland, who utilised natural dyes reflecting their local surroundings, with weaves chosen, based on familial preference.
Tartans were notably donned by the Jacobite army, during the eighteenth Century, comprising the clansmen who battled the English army. However, it was not until the Victorian era that specific tartans were associated with particular Scottish clan names.
Tartan remains a timeless fashion staple most commonly linked with Scotland, the British aristocracy and rural life and used by heritage brands such as Burberry, Barbour and Aquascutum.
It was later incorporated into anti-establishment youthful styles, such as the rockabilly fashion of the 1950s and the punk fashion of the late 1970s, championed in fashion, by British designers, Vivienne Westwood and Alexander McQueen and French designer, John-Paul Gaultier.
For an understanding of how you could best wear checked patterns, please book a Body Type Style Analysis.