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Writer's pictureJoanna

Patterns in Fashion: iii. Stripes

  • Throughout Medieval times, bold stripes were used to bring negative attention to individuals, such as court jesters, prisoners, prostitutes and circus characters.

  • Stripes were also worn by the Proletariats during the French Revolution of the 1780s - 1790s, symbolising peasants, rebellion and the Republic of France.

  • Historically, striped 'mariniere' tops were the standard uniform for Breton sailors, also known as 'matelots,' and were adopted by the French Navy in 1858 to aid in spotting sailors who fell overboard.

  • Following World War II, the 'Beatnik' style emerged in the 1950s, featuring artists' smocks, fishermen's attire, and utilitarian clothing, which became popular among young people and contributed to the 'New Wave' of creativity in cinema and music.

  • Presently, stripes remain a timeless pattern embraced by brands inspired by Breton fashion, such as St. James and Petit Bateau. French fashion designer John-Paul Gaultier notably incorporated thicker sailor stripes in his more theatrical designs.


Striped Dress - Stripes in Fashion

  • During the 1920s, stripes gained popularity among fashionable and affluent women who embraced a more active lifestyle, sporting short hair, short hemlines and starting to engage in more active pursuits, such as golf, tennis and driving. Coco Chanel adopted stripes in her 'Garconne' style of the late 1920s, focusing on shorter, boxier silhouettes that prioritised comfort and freedom of movement. This bold look was perhaps viewed at the time as both daring and stylish.

  • Over time, the sporty aesthetic has evolved with advancements in fabric technology. Brands like Lacoste, Adidas and Tommy Hilfiger have integrated stripes into their distinctive designs.

  • In the 1960s, the thick, prominent Mod stripes reflected a rebellious spirit reminiscent of past eras. Figures like Twiggy, Brigitte Bardot and Francoise Hardy embraced the trend in film, stage and magazine, by wearing boldly striped dresses by Courreges.

  • The vertical striped suits and shirts, popularised in 1980s Wall Street culture, was epitomised by Gordon Gekko's character, portrayed by Michael Douglas in the film 'Wall Street' (1987). Initially associated with the financial 'anti-hero,' the striped shirt's mainstream adoption symbolised participation in a booming and global City-led economy, embodying the modern interpretation of success, power and prestige.

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