Fabrics in Fashion: vii. Synthetics

Updated: 5 days ago

What is in this article?

i. History of synthetic fibres in fashion

The development of synthetic fibres, derived from polymers, has significantly transformed the textile industry, offering man-made alternatives to natural fibres.

The earliest innovation in fabric technology was the development of rayon in the late nineteenth Century and dubbed 'artificial silk.' It was produced using a process called viscose, where cellulose from wood pulp was chemically treated and extruded.

Polyethylene fibres, first discovered in 1933 at the British chemical company, ICI, and made from non toxic and chemically resilient polymers, can now create fabrics of high strength and resistance, used to make waterproof clothing. 'Gore-tex,' a polytetrafluoroethylene rapidly stretched and bonded with other materials, creates a strong, microporous material that is both waterproof and windproof, yet allows perspiration to escape.

In 1935, developed by Du Pont, an American multinational chemical company, nylon was the first fully synthetic fibre, created from chemicals derived from coal, water and air. In 1939, nylon stockings were introduced at the World's Fair - a major breakthrough in the fashion industry.

In 1941, polyester was patented and production became commercially viable in the 1950s. Polyester clothing became popular and widespread in the 1960s and 1970s, for its wrinkle resistant and durable properties.

Acrylic, also developed by Du Pont and marketed under the name Orlon, offered a wool-like texture and was used in knitted sweaters and cold-weather clothing.

DuPont chemists C.L. Sandquist and Joseph Shivers invented spandex in 1959, revolutionising clothing with its exceptional stretch and recovery properties.

In 2016, Stanford researchers used a material called nanoPE, which uses small holes, spread out densely over the fabric's surface area to create a cooling effect, thus innovating a new sports material.

By the late twentieth Century, polyester had surpassed cotton, in global production, with synthetic fibres now dominating the textile industry. This led to a decline in the production of natural fibres, such as wool and cotton.

ii. Advantages and disadvantages

The advantages of synthetic fibres are their cost effectiveness, durability, resistance to wear and tear, ease of care and versatility.

The disadvantages of synthetic fibres are their reliance on petroleum based production methods, leading to increased greenhouse gas emissions; the shedding of microplastics through washing that enter and pollute the waterways and difficulties in fabric recycling, causing waste accumulation.

However, recent developments in technology, such as recycling synthetics from used plastic, such as PET bottles; the creation of biodegradable synthetic fibres that do not shed microplastics and more sustainable production methods, such as the use of bio-synthetics and carbon capture, can reduce the reliance on fossil fuels and energy consumption.

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iii. The future of synthetic fabrics

Technological innovations in synthetics include developing enhanced performance fibres; developing conductive yarns to enable wearable electronics and introducing sensors into fabrics to create interactive and functional materials for sport and health.
Digital innovations include 3D printing and digital designs customised to create complex fabric structures, as well as using digital manufacturing to create personalised fabric solutions.
The development of new fabrics include combining existing synthetics with other materials such as graphene or nano-materials, to create fabrics with tailored properties.

New fabrics also include 'Kinari,' a synthetic silk alternative, developed by Toray, that mimics the properties of silk, whilst being more durable and easier to handle. Also, 'MycoTEX,' a 100% biodegradable material made from mycelium (mushroom roots), which offers a sustainable alternative to traditional textiles.