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Colours in Fashion: iii. Red

Writer's picture: JoannaJoanna
  • Red, a colour that is hot, dynamic, and bold, represents blood, heat and inflammation. It is linked to risk, anger, impulsivity, sexuality and war.

  • One of the primary colours, red can be cool or warm, soft or bright. It is positioned opposite green on the colour wheel and is the combination of blue and yellow, the other two primary shades.

  • Derived from ancient Indian Vedic texts, the chakras are utilised in modern Vedic practices like yoga. Red is the colour symbolising the root chakra known as ‘Muladhara,’ located at the base of the spine. This red chakra visually represents our primal energies, including the drive to survive and fulfil basic needs like hunger and safety.


Woman wearing Red Dress

  • During the fifteenth Century, the textile industry thrived in Europe, particularly in cities like Venice, which had trade connections with Asia. 'Venetian Scarlet' was a luxurious red colour that was locally dyed with a recipe closely guarded by the State. Monarchs and rulers across Europe placed orders for fabrics and dyes from Venice and Florence.

  • In the sixteenth Century, Cochineal from Mexico made its way to Europe. This insect produced a vivid red shade that replaced previous dyes and was utilised as a pigment by seventeenth Century Flemish painters, such as Rubens and Van Dyck.

  • In the mid-seventeenth Century, Oliver Cromwell introduced the distinctive red infantry coats for the British army, using cochineal dye, which remained in use until the late nineteenth Century.

  • By the 1870s, synthetic red dyes started to replace cochineal. However, by the end of the century, the Arts and Crafts movement rejected industrialisation and advocated for colours in harmony with nature, leading to a revival in the use of natural dyes like madder and cochineal.

  • Spanish designer Cristobal Balenciaga (born 1895) drew inspiration from Spanish painters such as Velazquez (seventeenth Century) and Goya (eighteenth Century), as well as traditional Spanish attire, as worn by flamenco dancers and bullfighters, to create garments in 'Cardinal red,' reflecting the classic Spanish style, predating General Franco's era.

  • Italian designer Valentino Garavani (born 1932) established red as a signature colour for his fashion label, 'Valentino,' gaining acclaim for his red evening gowns. 'Valentino red', a vibrant scarlet, has been officially recognised as a colour by Pantone.

  • Red, known for its dynamism and aggression, is also closely linked with competitive sportswear, for example, the official kit of USA's Chicago Bulls basketball team (circa 1966).





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